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Teach Your Pooch to Be Obedient Thru Dog Leash Training

Dog Service Network — Tue, 20 Jan 2009 00:45:00 +0000

Do you envision yourself with your pet walking along the streets, around your neighborhood, or strolling in the park together? What a lovely sight would that be especially when you need not control your pet because it behaves perfectly fine. It does not attempt to go ahead of you or pull its leash. However if you do not have an obedient dog you might have a problem. You will need to engage your pooch with dog leash training. This training aims to help you obtain the good character inside your pooch. Dogs have that playful, obedient and loyal nature which you need to find within your canine friend.

Usually you can observe these character traits when you have gained your pooch’s respect and trust. Having your pup recognized you as its master is very essential before you start any dog leash training. If you think you and your pup are both ready for the dog leash training it time to choose the right dog leash. You must make sure that when you tie the leash around your pet’s neck it is not too tight that it will have breathing problems and not too loose that your pet can take it off easily. If this is your pooch’s first time to wear a leash anticipate that it will not be comfortable and it will do everything to take it off.

Allow some adjustment for its part before you begin the training. Proper dog training happens when nothing distracts or messes up its focus. For the first days or weeks (it depends on your pet) try walking your pooch around the house. Make sure that when you walk, it does not try to go somewhere else. If it does stop for a moment and let it sit. You can also try patting it at the same time letting its attention focus only at you. You will need more patience because you will do this for several times until your pet understands what you intended it for.

If your pooch does well around the house it is time for the next big step. You can now fulfill your dream of walking your pet anywhere you want with an obedient pet beside you. However don’t get your hopes too high when it is the first time- again. There are outside factors which might make your pooch lose its focus. Examples of these include seeing another animal especially if it’s bigger, seeing strangers and anything which can catch its attention. When this happens it will definitely chase after those things. So be prepared for anything like this to happen.

Try bringing reinforcements such as tasteful dog treats. You can hand them out especially when the situation gets worst. Do not blame your training if some things go out of hand like it attacked another dog or chase after children because these things are beyond your control. Just make observations whenever your pet behaves beyond normal and see to it that you do have the control the next time it happens. Make your dog leash training fun for you and your pooch.

The author of this article Alex De La Cruz is a Dog Trainer who has been successful with several dog training courses for many years. Alex decided to share his knowledge and tips through his website http://www.doggyweb.info. You can sign up for his free newsletter and enjoy a healthy and submissive dog.

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Who’s Pulling On The Leash, You Or Your Dog?

Dog Service Network — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:59:38 +0000

By Juanita Bellavance

Hopefully no one is pulling the leash. The ideal situation is that you and your dog are equally enjoying the walk and neither is pulling and tugging the other in any certain direction.

If your dog tends to be pulling you off into its own direction a large amount of the time you are walking, you can train the dog to stop doing this. What’s interesting is that you have actually been training the dog to do this behavior not only by allowing it but by supporting it without realizing it.

There are various reasons that cause a dog to automatically pull on the leash. For example, when a beagle sees a squirrel or other animal scurry quickly across in front of him, he is going to go berzerk. You can count on that. So be ready to hold on strongly if you plan to keep the beagle in tow in a situation like this.Just holding the dog in tow is not enough, though, since this will reinforce the dog’s desire to pull. Think of it as a training opportunity! To use it as a training opportunity, you’ll need to know exactly
how you’re going to train.

Another example that will cause your dog to pull you off course is when your dog wants to sniff out an area, he will automatically go to the area with no thought of you who are on the other end of his leash.

Expert trainers have techniques to keep a dog focused in the direction of your choice. You want to take care not to reward the dog when he goes off your chosen path and expects you to go with him. Since it takes you by surprise, you may inadvertently reward him by following him, impulsively reacting to his sudden behavior.

Now you may take a look at what you are doing that is rewarding this behavior. You say, “I’m not rewarding him! I don’t give him a treat for doing this.” This is the time to consider what a dog considers a reward, then.

To a dog a reward is when you give him something which brings him happiness whether you meant it as a reward or not. As you know, treats are not the only thing that bring happiness in a dog’s life. Consider that you are rewarding the dog when he is allowed to pull you off course at his w/him.

Any dog can be trained to stop pulling on the leash. There are no limits as to age or how long the dog has been allowed to pull on the leash. From what you have read here and with some patience, focus and repetition you can
train your dog to stop pulling on the leash.

The bad news is that this training takes some education. The good news is that this education is available and the training is possible for anyone who can physically hold the dog on a leash. And more good news: there is no pain or punishment involved at all, neither for you nor for your dog! An expert trainer can give you some basic steps to getting the results you want by following a specified formula.

Mogens Eliasen of K9joy is an expert trainer with 30+ years experience and author of the fabulous resource titled “Don’t Pull On The Leash.” http://www.PullingOnTheLeash.com

Juanita Bellavance, the author of this article can be
contacted at jjbellava@MyCopywritingSpecialist.com

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How You Can Prevent Your Puppy From Jumping On People, Tugging The Leash And Roaming Around Dangerously

Dog Service Network — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:16:36 +0000

By: Jonathan Cheong

Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviors is one thing that most dog owners eventually face. Here we will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems.

Problem #1 – Jumping up on people

One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people. Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviors that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning owners. After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 10 pound puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your friends. Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small puppy with kisses and treats.

This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little puppy may soon become a full grown dog who could weigh well in excess of 100 pounds. Suddenly that cute jumping behavior is no longer quite so cute.

In addition to being annoying, jumping up on people can be dangerous as well. A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically, can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult. In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make you, as the dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.

The time to teach a dog that jumping up on people is unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle. Retraining a dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can be difficult for the owner, and confusing for the dog.

When the puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your family, gently but firmly place the puppy’s feet back on the floor. After the puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure to reward and praise him.

It is important for every member of the family, as well as frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow it religiously. If one member of the family reprimands the dog for jumping and another praises him, the dog will be understandably confused. As with other dog training issues, consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is always inappropriate.

When praising and rewarding the dog for staying down, it is important for the trainer to get down on the dog’s level. Giving affection and praise at eye level with the puppy is a great way to reinforce the lesson.

The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious – they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.

One way to redirect the dog’s happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This “shaking hands” posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.

Problem #2 – Pulling and tugging at the leash

Pulling on the leash is another problem trait that many puppies pick up. Unfortunately, this behavior is also one that is sometimes encouraged by well meaning owners. Playing games like tug of war with the leash, or even with a rope (that can look like the leash to the dog) can unwittingly encourage a problem behavior.

The use of a quality body harness can be a big help when training a puppy not to pull, or retraining a dog that has picked up the habit of pulling on the leash. Try training the puppy to accept the body harness the same way it accepts the regular buckle collar.

When walking with your dog, try using a lure or toy to encourage the dog to remain at your side. A training collar, when properly used, can also be a good training tool for a problem dog. When using a training collar or choke chain, however, it is very important to fit it correctly, and to use a size that is neither too big nor too small for your dog.

When walking with your puppy, it is important to keep the leash loose at all times. If the puppy begins to pull ahead, the handler should quickly change directions so that the puppy fast finds itself falling behind. It is important to reverse directions before the puppy has reached the end of the leash.

The leash should stay loose except for the split second it takes the handler to reverse direction. It is important to use a quick tug, followed by an immediate slackening of the leash.

When training a puppy, it is important to never let the puppy pull you around. Training the puppy to walk properly while he or she is still small enough to handle is absolutely vital, especially when dealing with a large breed of dog. If your 150 pound Great Dane hasn’t learned to walk properly while he or she is still a 20 pound puppy, chances are it never will.

It is important not to yank or pull on the puppy’s neck when correcting him. A gentle, steady pressure will work much better than a hard yank. The best strategy is to use the least amount of pressure possible to achieve the desired result.

Problem #3 – Escaping and roaming the neighborhood

A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.

Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner’s idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let’s talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.

Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.

In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.

Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.

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Advanced Dog Training – When To Give Your Dog Freedom Off The Leash

Dog Service Network — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:10:02 +0000

By: Jonathan Cheong

Many dog owners are anxious to give their four legged companions the freedom of going off leash, but it is important not to rush that important step. Dogs should only be allowed off their leash after they have become masters of all the basic obedience commands, such as walking at your heel, sitting and staying on command.

Another skill that must be completely mastered before the dog can be taken off the leash is the come when called command. Even if the dog can heel, sit and stay perfectly, if he cannot be relied upon to come when called, he is not ready to be taken off the leash.

Taking any dog off the leash, especially in a busy, crowded area, or one with a lot of traffic, is a big step and not one to be taken lightly. It is vital to adequately test your dog in a safe environment before taking him off his leash. After all, the leash is the main instrument of control. You must be absolutely certain you can rely on your voice commands for control before removing the leash.

After the dog has been trained to understand the sit, stay and come when called commands, it is important to challenge the dog with various distractions. It is a good idea to start by introducing other people, other animals, or both, while the dog is in a safe environment like a fenced in yard.

Have a friend or neighbor stand just outside the fence while you hold you dog on the leash. As the friend or family member walks around the outside of the fence, watch your dog’s reactions closely. If he starts to pull at the leash, quickly tug him back.

Repeat this exercise until the dog will reliably remain at your side. After this, you can try dropping the leash, and eventually removing the leash and repeating the distraction. It is important to vary the distractions, such as introducing other animals, other people, traffic, rolling balls, etc.

After your dog is able to remain still in the face of distraction, start introducing the come when called lessons with distractions in place. Try inviting some of the neighbors, and their dogs, over to play. As the dogs are playing in the fenced in yard, try calling your dog.

When the dog comes to you, immediately give him lots of praise, and perhaps a food reward. After the dog has been rewarded, immediately allow him to go back to playing. Repeat this several times throughout the day, making sure each time to reward the dog and immediately allow him to go back to his fun.

After the dog has seemingly mastered coming when called in his own yard, try finding a local dog park or similar area where you can practice with your dog. It is important to make the area small, or to choose a fenced in area, in case you lose control of the dog. If you cannot find a fenced in area, choose an area well away from people and cars.

Practice with your dog by allowing him to play with other dogs, or just to sniff around, then calling your dog. When he comes to you, immediately reward and praise him, then let him resume his previous activities. Doing this will teach the dog that coming to you is the best option and the one most likely to bring both rewards and continued good times.

Only after the dog has consistently demonstrated the ability to come when called, even when there are many distractions around, is it safe to allow him time off leash. Off leash time should never be unsupervised time. It is important, both for your well being and your dog’s, that you know where he is and what he is doing at all times.

It is easy for a dog to get into trouble quickly, so you should always keep an eye on him, whether he is chasing squirrels in the park, playing with other dogs, or just chasing a ball with the neighbor’s kids.

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5 Important Considerations When Using A Training Collar

Dog Service Network — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:48:01 +0000

By: Jonathan Cheong

The basic dog training collar goes by many names, including choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These training collars are among the most popular and most commonly used tools with both amateur and professional dog trainers.

While a training collar is an effective tool, like any tool it must be used properly in order to be effective for you and safe for the dog. Among the most important considerations when using a training collar are:

How the collar fits the dog. It is essential that the training collar be properly fitted to the dog. A properly fitted training collar is easier to use and safer for the dog.
Putting the training collar on properly. There is a right way and a wrong way to fit a training collar, and putting it on wrong will make it both ineffective and potentially dangerous.
Using the collar properly. A training collar should be used as a sharp reminder to the dog, not as punishment. It is important that constant pressure be avoided when using a training collar.
The weight of the chain and the size of the links on the training collar. It is important that the weight of the chain be appropriate to the size and weight of the dog.
The placement of the collar on the dog. It is important to properly place the collar on the dog.

The importance of a properly fitted training collar

Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head.

It is also important to know that a training collar that is too long for the dog requires a great deal of finesse to use properly. A collar that is too long can still be used, but it will require more skill on the part of the handler.

Properly sizing and measure the dog for a training collar

It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12″ in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14″ in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.

Fitting the collar properly

When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.

If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Finally, it is important to purchase a training collar that is well made and strong. Buying a high quality training collar, slip collar or choke collar is vital to the safety of yourself and your dog.

If the worst happens, and your dog’s training collar does break, it is important not to panic. Most dogs will be unaware that they have broken the collar, at least for a few minutes. In most cases, if you act as if the leash is still connected, you can probably get control of your dog back quickly.

When securing a loose dog, the best strategy is to make a quick slip lead by running the snap on the leash through its handle and then slipping it over the dog’s head. It may not be the best arrangement, but it will certainly do in a pinch.

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How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling On The Leash During Walks

Dog Service Network — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:30:27 +0000

By: Jonathan Cheong

Pulling on the leash is one of the most common misbehaviors seen on all kinds of dogs. Puppies and adult dogs alike can often be seen taking their owners for walks, instead of the other way around. Pulling on the leash can be much more than an annoying habit. Leash pulling can lead to escape in the case of a break in the collar or leash, and an out of control, off leash dog can be both destructive and dangerous to itself and to others.

Leash pulling can result from a variety of different things. In some cases, the dog may simply be so excited to go for a walk that he or she is unable to control themselves. In other cases, the dog sees itself as the leader of the pack, and he or she simply takes the “leadership position” at the front of the pack.

If excitement is the motivation for leash pulling, simply giving the dog a few minutes to calm down can often be a big help. Simply stand with the dog on the leash for a couple minutes and let the initial excitement of the upcoming walk pass. After the initial excitement ahs worn off, many dogs are willing to walk calmly on their leash.

If the problem is one of control, however, some retraining may be in order. All dog training starts with the owner establishing him or herself as the alpha dog, or pack leader, and without this basic respect and understanding, no effective training can occur. For dogs exhibiting these type of control issues, a step back to basic obedience commands is in order.

These dogs can often be helped through a formal obedience school structure. The dog trainer will of course be sure to train the handler as well as the dog, and any good dog trainer will insist on working with the dog owner as well as the dog.

The basis of teaching the dog to walk calmly on the lead is teaching it to calmly accept the collar and lead. A dog that is bouncing up and down while the collar is being put on will not walk properly. Begin by asking your dog to sit down, and insisting that he sit still while the collar is put on. If the dog begins to get up, or gets up on his own after the collar is on, be sure to sit him back down immediately. Only begin the walk after the dog has sat calmly to have the collar put on, and continued to sit calmly as the leash is attached.

Once the leash is attached, it is important to make the dog walk calmly toward the door. If the dog jumps or surges ahead, gently correct him with a tug of the leash and return him to a sitting position. Make the dog stay, then move on again. Repeat this process until the dog is walking calmly by your side.

Repeat the above process when you reach the door. The dog should not be allowed to surge out of the door, or to pull you through the open door. If the dog begins this behavior, return the dog to the house and make him sit quietly until he can be trusted to walk through the door properly. Starting the walk in control is vital to creating a well mannered dog.

As you begin your walk, it is vital to keep the attention of the dog focused on you at all times. Remember, the dog should look to you for guidance, not take the lead himself. When walking, it is important to stop often. Every time you stop, your dog should stop. Getting into the habit of asking your dog to sit down every time you stop is a good way to keep your dog’s attention focused on you.

Make sure your dog is looking at you, then move off again. If the dog begins to surge ahead, immediately stop and ask the dog to sit. Repeat this process until the dog is reliability staying at your side. Each time the dog does what you ask him to, be sure to reward him with a treat, a toy or just your praise.

Remember that if your dog pulls on the leash and you continue to walk him anyway, you are inadvertently rewarding that unwanted behavior. Dogs learn whether you are teaching them or not, and learning the wrong things now will make learning the right things later that much harder.

It is important to be consistent in your expectations. Every time the dog begins to pull ahead, immediately stop and make the dog sit. Continue to have the dog sit quietly until his focus is solely on you. Then start out again, making sure to immediately stop moving if the dog surges ahead.

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Is It Okay To Leave Your Dog Outside?

Dog Service Network — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 04:15:20 +0000

The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) suggests that pets all pets should stay indoors with their family. However, don’t mistaken this to mean your dog should never be allowed to go outside. The HSUS recommends that your dog spend time outside when supervised and under control.

Leaving your dog outside for long periods of time (especially if chained up) can be stressful for your dog, which could lead to problems:

Emotional & Behavioral (i.e. aggression)
Physical (i.e. not being able to escape weather conditions such as extreme humidity or freezing cold)
Safety (i.e. can be stolen, abused, or killed)

If you still choose to have your dog left outside, make sure you leave your dog proper shelter, food and water. Proper shelter is important in case of inclement weather conditions or dangerous temperatures occur.

Source: “What To Do About a Dog Who’s Left Outside”, HSUS.org; Retrieved on December 6, 2008 from http://www.hsus.org/pets/issues_affecting_our_pets/animal_abuse_and_neglect/what_to_do_about_a_dog_whos_left_outside.html

Leash Manners

Dog Service Network — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 01:29:53 +0000

Dogs have to be taught to walk nicely on a leash. They are not born knowing that they shouldn’t pull or lag behind, after all. Teaching leash manners can be challenging, primarily because dogs are wildly excited about going for walks, and they find it so rewarding to do their own thing. Some dogs are determined to get where they are going as fast as they possibly can; other dogs want to stop, sniff, and urinate on anything and everything in their path. If you plan to teach your dog to walk nicely on a loose leash, it is critical that you never allow the dog to be rewarded for pulling. If you are inconsistent, your dog will continue to pull because sometimes it pays off. This means that even if you’re in a hurry to take the dog out, you can’t relax the rules and permit the dog to pull!

You may have seen “obedience dogs” at shows or on TV who prance alongside their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have been trained in precision heeling. While this looks incredible, it is not something a dog can do for long periods of time. Precision heeling demands constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even these dogs have been taught basic manners to be able to walk along on a loose leash.

There are various methods for teaching a dog to walk without pulling. No one method works for all dogs. There are certain rules that ought to be followed no matter which approach you opt for:

- Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, all walks are training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short, and fun for the dog.

- Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly desirable treats that the dog does not have access to at other times. Soft treats are best so the dog can eat them quickly. Most dogs love sliced wieners, small cubes of cheese, cut-up pieces of cooked chicken, small chunks of jerky treat and freeze-dried liver.

- You’ll be more successful if you find a way to tire the dog out before taking him for a training walk. Dogs pull in part because they are filled with excess energy, and unless you can expend that energy, it will be very hard for your dog to control himself. Play fetch in the hallway or backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive the dog to the park so he can play with his buddies before you attempt to teach him to walk nicely on leash.

- Walk at a good, quick pace. If the dog is trotting or running, he has less opportunity to catch a whiff of something enticing, and he is less inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. You are far more interesting to the dog when you move quickly.

- All dogs need to sniff and eliminate on walks. Some dogs take forever choosing the exact best spot on which to urinate or defecate! Allow your dog a certain amount of time, then say, “Okay hurry up,” and give a light tug on the collar. Give him another 30 seconds and repeat, “Okay, let’s walk,” in a firmer tone of voice. Pull the dog away from the spot and resume walking. This way you are giving your dog a warning—and if he really wants to urinate in that spot, he knows he has 30 seconds in which to do it!

- If you expect your dog to be controlled while walking on leash, you must also expect him to be controlled before you go for the walk. If your dog gets wildly excited as you prepare to go for a walk, you need to start your training at this point. Walk to the door and pick up the leash. If your dog is racing back and forth from you to the door, barking, whining, spinning, or jumping up, stop and ask your dog to sit. If the dog continues to be wild, put the leash down and go sit and read the paper. Try again a few minutes later. Continue until the dog actually does sit. Praise and reach to put the leash on the dog. If he jumps out of the sit, drop the leash, stand up tall, and say “Sit.” Wait. When the dog sits, try again. This is tedious training that will make your first few attempts to go for a walk very taxing on your patience! But eventually you will have a dog who can sit and wait while you attach his leash to his collar and open the door. The next step is teaching the dog to walk without pulling on the leash!

Option 1:
Walk in your intended direction. The moment you feel the dog pulling on the leash, stop dead in your tracks and wait. When the dog stops pulling (maybe he turns to see what you’re doing), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and resume walking. With any luck, your dog will look up at you because of the tasty treat. Immediately say “Yes” and give another treat while you keep walking. If the dog pulls again, repeat the same steps: stop dead and wait, when the dog relaxes the pressure on the leash, call him to you, have him sit, say “Yes” and give a treat, then resume walking. Take every opportunity to reward the dog for staying next to you and/or looking up at you, while continuing to walk. If you do this consistently, the dog learns two things: (1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and he gets to keep moving, and (2) if he pulls on the leash, it’s a pain in the butt because he doesn’t get to keep moving AND he has to come back to you and sit. If you see that your dog is pulling toward an object to sniff or eliminate, follow the same rules but when the dog comes back and sits by you, say “Yes” and release him to go to the object (provided you are close enough that he doesn’t need to pull). After a few days or weeks, you will find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward your dog for good behavior or he will regress back to pulling.

Option 2:
Before you begin walking, call your dog’s name to get his attention. When he looks up at you, show him that you have a few tasty treats in your free hand. Hold your hand in front of your dog’s face so he is looking at the treats, maybe even trying to nibble at one. Say “Let’s walk,” and move in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a small treat into the dog’s mouth. Praise your dog for walking along at your pace. If the dog stops and sniffs or pulls ahead, stop and gain your dog’s attention. Have him sit, show him the treats, and start again. Gradually, over days or weeks, pull your hand up closer to your body. If your dog jumps up to get the treat, say “uh uh” and tuck your hand in tight to your body. When all four of his feet are back on the ground, say “Good!” and reposition your hand. When you reward the dog, reach down to his face to pop the treat in his mouth. When he can walk along without pulling and with your hand in a more natural position beside your body, tuck your hand in a pocket. Continue to reward frequently. Eventually you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at your side, reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward the dog. Over time, gradually increase the amount of time between treats so your dog is walking along for longer distances between treats.

Option 3 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):
For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient to give them the idea that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls, it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly so your dog will check himself at the end of the leash. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash AND he gets farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.

**** Be advised that if your dog is RUNNING at full speed toward the end of the leash, you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow him to check himself against the leash without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.

Option 4 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):
More resistant dogs may need a jerk on the collar when they pull. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, say, “I said, easy,” in a firm tone, and jerk back on the leash so the dog feels pressure on the front of his neck. To do this, you will need to reach your arm forward a few inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows down. How much pressure you exert when you jerk back depends on the dog. If your dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and tenacious, you may need a stronger arm.

**** Be advised that if you apply an inordinate amount of effort when you jerk on the dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to the neck. A dog’s trachea is susceptible to bruising, so be extremely cautious when using this approach.

What sort of equipment should you use?
While you are teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, you should use a 4- or 6-foot leash. Use a width and a material that are comfortable for your hand. Chain leashes are awkward to use and should be avoided unless you have a dog who easily chews through leashes. There are elasticized leashes (made of “bungee” material) that work well to discourage pulling in some dogs. Extendable leashes, such as the FlexiTM, or leashes longer than 6 feet are appropriate for giving the dog exercise while on leash but are inappropriate for teaching a dog not to pull.

GOOD Collar Choices:
- A regular buckle collar
- A martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar)
- A head halter/head collar (such as the HaltiTM, Gentle LeaderTM, Snoot LoopTM)
- A no-pull harness (such as the SensationTM or the LupiTM)
- The head halters and no-pull harnesses may decrease pulling without additional training.

UNSUITABLE Collar Choices:
- Aregular body harness (actually encourages pulling)
-A fabric or metal choke/check collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer)
- A pinch/prong collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of a certified trainer)

Dogs who Resist Walking on Leash
There are dogs who are reluctant to walk on leash—and instead of pulling, they freeze or turn and pull back toward home. Often such dogs are fearful, and they need a boost in confidence to feel comfortable walking on leash.

One approach is to lure the dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his face. If the dog is not too afraid, he should follow the treats and gradually will become more comfortable walking with you.

A second method is to stop a few feet in front of the dog and wait when he freezes. If the dog shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach to the dog to deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again, wait for the dog to voluntarily move toward you. Praise and reward the dog for forward movement only.

The third method is only appropriate for small- to medium-sized dogs who will walk for stretches at a time, but then balk for no apparent reason. Have the dog wear a regular body harness, and pick the dog up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet along. This will often “jump start” the dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and offer a treat when the dog begins to move. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him along with treats so that he never stops.

Whatever method you choose, sometimes it can help to start out by walking the dog in less frightening environments. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet residential street or a path through the park. When the dog develops a level of comfort in the low-key places, gradually progress to busier areas.

Your dog may respond well if you ask him to engage in other behaviors when he stops forward movement. Ask the dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw, or execute any convenient behavior that he knows and enjoys performing. Sometimes this helps the dog forget why he was nervous, and so he begins walking again. Of course, you must always praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.

Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hang out with the dog. Talk to him and periodically give him treats when you see any signs that he’s relaxing in the situation.

Don’t Underestimate the Importance of the Proper Dog Training Collar

Dog Service Network — Sat, 15 Nov 2008 03:08:36 +0000

After you bring home that cute puppy you couldn’t help but love, a trip to the local pet store is your next stop. Cruising down the aisle, you fill the cart with food bowls, toys, and, of course, a collar! Choosing the correct collar is extremely important for both you and your pet.

Proper use of training collars is vital, and most collars are used incorrectly. Dr. Christine Merle, a veterinarian formerly with the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana, explains, “A collar won’t be any good unless you know how to use it. It is important to learn from someone how to put it on and use it properly.”

A common mistake is putting the collar on too tight. Two fingers should be able to fit between your pet and the collar. Dogs also need to become used to wearing a collar, and this training should begin when they are puppies. The first time you put a new training collar on your dog, the problems you’ve been experiencing will not go away immediately.

“A dog needs to become accustomed to a collar. You can’t just put a new collar on one day and expect your dog to walk normally. The collar is a training tool and a learning experience for your dog,” comments Dr. Merle.

The most prominent training collars currently on the market are the choke collar, pinch or prong collar, Halti or Gentle Leader, and No-Pull harness. Not all dogs respond to each collar the same way. What works well with your neighbor’s dog may not be the best choice for your dog. Dr. Merle advises, “Knowing the ability of each collar helps you find the appropriate one.”

A choke collar is a chain or rolled, braided nylon. Prong collars are made of metal prongs that connect to each other and provide many pressure points. With both types the owner corrects the dog using a quick motion that sharply tightens and releases the collar while telling the dog to stop. The dog is given minimal choice or control.

Some dogs learn to ignore the collar when allowed to pull steadily and continually against it. The owner no longer has control. Dogs that pull forward constantly against the collar will often make a choking sound. If your dog is doing this, stop the use of the collar. Such collars can damage dogs’ necks when not used correctly or if the dog is able to override it. Proper training from the start can prevent these problems with choke or prong collars.

Choke and prong collars can be very effective training tools when used appropriately and many professional dog trainers use them as part of their training plan.

The Halti, Gentle Leader, and No-Pull harness, on the other hand, allow the dog control. These collars pull the head down when the dog pulls, thus stopping forward motion. The collar also places pressure behind the head in the spot where dogs signal each other when they want to control or stop another dog.

With these collars the owner is a bystander. The owner should not tug on the Halti or Gentle Leader. The dog needs to be allowed to make the correction.

“By giving the dog control, you allow it to fix the problem as well. This teaches proper behavior without punishing bad behavior,” says Dr. Merle. These head collars are very similar to horse halters, holding the cheek and jaws while one strap runs over the dog’s nose and another behind the back of the head. The leash is hooked under the chin to the nose strap. Owners may find these collars a little intimidating to put on at first but will have little problem after being shown the correct way.

Head collars give you more control of where the head is, and where the head goes, the body usually follows! “Taking control of where the head goes is better than taking control of the neck, because the neck doesn’t necessarily guide where the body moves,” says Dr. Merle.

As with all collars, getting the appropriate fit is of utmost importance. The dog should be able to comfortably eat, drink, pant, and bark. These collars are not muzzles. Dogs can still bite with a head collar on. These collars are great for dogs with neck problems and are extremely safe.

No-Pull harnesses fit under the dog’s front legs with loops over the dog’s shoulders. When the dog pulls, the harness pulls the front legs back thus slowing the pace. Make sure the collar is not too tight, because it could cut off circulation.

The harness is great for dogs that pull or lunge, but if your dog is prone to nipping, this collar is not recommended because there is no control of the head. Also, if your dog has back problems, a different collar may be more appropriate.

Appropriate training collars can help you to enjoy your daily dog-walking adventure! For more information about the correct choice of training collar, consult your veterinarian and professional dog trainers.

Ann Marie Falk, Information Specialist
Reprinted with permission by the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine
http://www.cvm.uiuc.edu/petcolumns/showarticle.cfm?id=379

Dog Service Network, LLC » Dog Walking

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