Dog Service Network, LLC » Barking

The Bark Stops Here!

Laura — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 02:59:59 +0000

With the quality of lives our dogs are living today as full-fledged members of our families, it’s hard to figure what they have to bark about! But all barks are not equal, and you must diagnose the cause before you can have any hope of eliminating it. Here are some techniques for diagnosing and then modifying this troublesome behavior…

Demand Barking

It is in our nature to respond and comfort the cries of our babies, whether they be of the human or canine persuasion. Of course, cries of true distress should not be ignored, but demand behaviors are a different matter. Yips of protest when your dog is first left alone in the crate, or an attention-seeking pup demanding to be plucked up into your lap, should not get the desired result, or you will be beleaguered by these behaviors for life. Instead, ask your dog for a polite sit (the doggie equivalent of “please”) before petting her. Approach her crate only when she’s calm and quiet. If your puppy barks at you for attention or for food, turn your back to her, or put her food away and leave the kitchen. In so doing, you’re teaching her that these behaviors impede progress rather than hasten it.

Recreational Barking

Recreational barking is often misdiagnosed as separation anxiety because it frequently happens when the family is absent. When barking is the sole symptom, first investigate the possibility that it’s recreational.
The act of barking is self-reinforcing so it is a behavior that is likely to intensify without modification. Increase exercise, particularly before leaving for long periods of time, so that your dog is tired and ready for a rest in your absence. Hire a dog walker to break up the time that he is left alone. Incorporate fun mental challenges like stuffed puzzle toys for your pup to work on in solitude. Leave some classical music playing: It can be relaxing and it can also dampen outside noises that might provoke your dog to bark.
As a last resort, the use of a citronella bark collar can inhibit the behavior by establishing an unpleasant consequence.

Barking Due to Separation Distress

Separation distress-related barking (whether it be due to separation anxiety or simply hyper-attachment) usually happens immediately upon being left alone. In the case of separation anxiety, other indicative symptoms are destructive (or self-destructive) behavior, breaking of housetraining in a housetrained dog, or anorexic behavior.

You must treat the underlying cause of your dog’s barking by gradually building his tolerance to periods of separation. (See the article Home Alone on http://www.mywoofgang.com/creature_feature.php.) Most importantly, never use punishment in an attempt to decrease separation anxiety-related barking, as it will only increase the anxiety in an already anxious dog.

Fear-Driven Barking

Under-socialized dogs may bark when in the presence of certain people, other dogs, or unfamiliar circumstances. My dog Trista barked when she saw horses for the first time on Mackinac Island in Michigan. This was fairly problematic since Mackinac relies on horses and horse-drawn vehicles for the majority of its transport. Within ten minutes of her first contact with horses, Trista was able to sit quietly near horses and even go for a horse-drawn carriage ride with the family. By using desensitization and counter-conditioning (as described in my article Harnessing the Power of Pavlov on http://www.mywoofgang.com/archive_VTC_Pavlov.php), the fear was treated and thus her barking was eliminated.

Punishing fear has the same unfortunate result as punishing anxiety – it only escalates the emotional trauma that the dog is experiencing. Treat the fear and the barking will resolve itself.

Communicative Barking

Bella Curled Up

One of my clients has a darling English Bulldog named Bella. Bella is a happy girl and so she should be: She has an affectionate, attentive mom and lives a very good life. There are times, though, when Bella needs to speak up! – when her Tricky Treat Ball rolls out of her reach under the furniture or when she needs a potty break. Bella’s not pushy, though; she lets out a single yap and waits for the attention she requires. This is perfectly appropriate doggie behavior.

Gone are the days when dogs are to be seen and not heard. Communication is a necessary and essential part of our relationships with our canine family members and should not be squelched completely.

So, rather than barking back at your dog, identify her grievance – whether it be one of an emotionally stressed dog or of a too-pampered pooch – and treat the cause.
LAURA GARBER, CPDT, is a certified dog trainer and behavior counselor living in Hoboken, NJ. Her company WoofGang, LLC is committed to deepening the bonds between dogs and their people through positive training and behavior modification techniques, and it is these same topics that inspire her writing.

Parts of this article are excerpted from her recently published book, Bringing Up Puppy. Email her at Laura@myWoofGang.com if you’d like to order a copy or if you have questions.

Canine Communication and Body Language

Dog Service Network — Sun, 21 Dec 2008 15:41:12 +0000

By Stan Rawlinson

A couple of years ago a Japanese electronics company came up with a Gizmo which they claimed could convert dogs barks, yips and whines into human language, thereby allowing us to understand “Doggie” speak for the first time. I was on a radio program recently, discussing the merits and usefulness of a new dog collar that was also a mobile phone. You could ring up and converse with your dog at any time and enjoy a nice cosy chat. You might as well text your pet for all the good phoning it would do; the mostly likely outcome of this idea would be to startle and frighten your pet.

In reality, real canine language is not just verbal; it is a rich visual language, where dogs are able to converse with each other irrespective of breed or nationality. A Collie from Wales can converse with an Akita from Japan and a Poodle living in France with a village dog in Ethiopia.

Dogs have a truly universal language that can be incredibly subtle and wide ranging. This marvellous language is one that we can also learn and understand, and through that ability communicate with our dogs far more effectively.

However this is a language that needs to be practiced for our dogs to be fluent. That is why early socialisation, puppy classes, and controlled play with other vaccinated dogs is so vitally important, especially in the critical periods from 7 to 16 weeks. As a behaviourist I get to treat many of these animals that are unable to give calming signals or are stunted in their ability to meet and greet because of the lack of early socialisation.

These are normally the ones that have fear and animosity towards other dogs and sometimes humans, culminating in the most common aggression of all “Fear”. In many cases, they are unable to understand or signal their intentions; a classic example is boxers who are often attacked by other dogs. They have been bred with flattened features that are almost immobile, then we dock their tail to a tiny useless stub, making them unable to display some of the facial and tail signals that are so important in the greeting ritual.

I said earlier that we can learn this language, however some aspects of canine language are so complex, that we cannot even start to reproduce it with our puny two legs, small immobile ears, and lack of tail.

We are further hampered by the fact that we tend to think that our pets can understand complex thought patterns; we assume a dog’s level of understanding is on a par with our own. This is known as “anthropomorphism”, the dictionary definition is “The attribution of human motivation, characteristics, or behaviour to nonhuman organisms or inanimate objects”. It is a bit like saying that a vine climbed up the tree to getter a better view of the garden.

Dogs and Vocalisation

Dogs do bark and vocalise it is a part of their ability to converse, however this is only one factor in your dogs language repertoire, effectively when they bark they are saying “Heyyyyy”. This can be happy, demanding or questioning. They also communicate verbally in other ways the excited Yip when you get the lead out, the bark they make when someone is at the door, quite different from the nervous bark when they hear something unusual.

Having said that true communication comes from the glance, the head position, the body posture, and a myriad of other signals constantly being passed back and forth. Dogs try to converse with us, but without understanding the subtly of the language we often miss most of what they are trying to convey. This can cause misunderstanding and confusion and may be one of the main reasons we get the behavioural problems we see today.

Greeting and Appeasing Signals

We humans are the direct descendants of primates including ape’s chimpanzees, bonobos and gorillas. That is not to denigrate our unique position on the evolutionary ladder, but our heritage is none the less, Primate. Dog’s ancestry is intrinsically linked to the wolf, therefore Canids, which include wolves, coyotes, and jackals, a very different species with very different body language.

Where communication sometimes breaks down is when we greet other species, we tend approach then as we would humans, face on making full eye contact; we often hug, face to face, putting our faces close together. Just look at the common greeting of kissing both cheeks. To a dog, this is a threatening gesture and is deemed rude and inappropriate.

Have you ever seen dogs hug? In the main most of our pets suffer this indignity in silence but not always. This is one of the reasons people are bitten, especially young children under five, who tend to cuddle everything they can get their hands on. This coupled with the fact that you cannot negotiate with a child under five, you have more chance of negotiating with a terrorist. Ask any mother, this sadly makes the toddler one of the most frequent victims of dog bites.

If you stand over a dog and ruffle the top of its head this can also be perceived as threatening, imagine someone coming up to you and ruffling your hair every time you met, how would you feel?

Turid Rugaas (1) The Norwegian behaviourist and acknowledged expert on reading the intricate body language of our canine companion’s states that dogs have a highly developed set of calming signals that act as diffusers of aggression and conflict. These signals include circling, lip licking, yawning, sniffing the ground, looking away, moving very slowly and deliberately, the body shake as if shedding water, distracted sniffing, and either sitting or lying down. These signals are aimed at other dogs but are also directed at us, who are also perceived loosely as pack members.

Just as we expect our pets to understand our every word, then dogs think we can interpret their signals, quite often these are the ones we miss when our dogs are stressed or worried. If you can spot them you can actually signal back calming gestures in response such as yawning, lip licking, moving slowly, and looking away. This helps to diffuse the situation and relax your pet.

If you think about it, these actions are the opposite of the aggressive stance that dogs take as a prequel to an attack or dogfight.

Aggression

As opposed to the calming signals, this body language is initially easier to read and includes ears pinned back flat against head, or sometimes pointed forward, hackles raised, hard stare, low head stance, stiff legged walk, lips skinned back, and tail either upright and quivering or straight out not wagging. There may be low growling or a snarl. Sometimes the dog gives a whale eye this is when the head is turned slightly away but the eyes showing the whites are turned towards you. This is often the look when the dog is guarding something like a bone. All these signals are a threat, the dog is saying stop what you are doing or there could be violence.

In Wolf packs these threat displays are a way of controlling the hierarchical structure, the breeding males and females will control their pack position by these overtly aggressive stance . Rarely does it turn into violence these animals cannot really afford to be injured or hurt in an all out fight, therefore threat displays normally suffice.

Because of our and sometimes other dogs, inability to read the postures and body language and give calming signals in return means that sometimes the threats can actually escalate into physical violence.

Timid Dogs: If you find that your dog is very fearful or timid round strangers get them to walk him on a lead with you, it calms and gives confidence to the stressed dog, make sure you are walking next to the dog at the same time

In conclusion, we need to watch and learn from our pets, if you write down the numerous signals your pet gives and in what context you will gradually build up an understanding of what he is saying to you.

You can then signal back appeasing signals in return turn your head away, yawn, or lick your lips at a fearful or aggressive dog and you may just diffuse the situation.

With practice, you should find yourself more able to communicate with your dog with a more enriched and sophisticated vocabulary. This will benefit both you and your dog and allow you to have a better understanding and more relaxed relationship with your pet.

© Copyright: Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener) is one of the leading Dog Behaviourists and Obedience Trainers in the UK. Who has owned and worked dogs for over 30 years, starting with Gundogs then moving on to the behavioural and obedience side of Pet Dogs. He now has a successful practice covering London, Surrey and Middlesex. Visit his Web Site for more information and details of his work.

http://www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
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Tips to Help Solve the Three Most Common Dog Barking Complaints

Dog Service Network — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 22:29:01 +0000

By Cynthia Alexander

Many dog owners find themselves frustrated, deeply concerned and even embarrassed by their dog’s constant barking. Currently, there are approximately 63 million dogs owned by 44 million Americans. And just over one third of those owners complain of excessive barking.

Allowing your dog to bark excessively can be hazardous to it’s safety. I should know, I lost my dog because of it. I found out that excessive barking is one of the major reasons that people end up losing their dog. It’s a problem that nobody likes to talk about or admit to.

Here are some practical solutions to three of the most common dog barking complaints.

Complaint # One: Your dog barks for more than 15 minutes continuously, or off and on for more than half an hour – especially after you leave the house. Better known as separation anxiety.

Solution: Even the Queen of Talk herself, Oprah Winfrey suffered from this problem. The key is to not make a big deal when you are leaving the house. Many people feel guilty and start apologizing to their pooch when they have to leave it alone. Don’t! That negative energy will affect your dog. Your dog can feel your stress and will play into it, causing nervous barking. How you react will dictate how your pup reacts. Leave calmly without exciting your dog. Better yet, do something to preoccupy your dog so she’s not focused on you when you are about to leave.

Complaint # Two: Outside sounds cause your dog to bark for long periods of time.

Solution: You need to do something to block out those noises. You may want to consider putting your dog in a room as far away from the main street as possible and don’t let him have free reign of the house. And while he’s in there, try turning on a radio (preferably classical music or a soft style of music) to calm your dog. It’s really true that music soothes the savage beast.

Complaint # Three: Your dog constantly barks, whines or whimpers due to stress or anxiety or for any reason at all.

Solution: This can be a tough one for most people but, DO NOT give your dog attention when it’s behaving like this. Too many people unwittingly contribute to this particular problem by picking up their dog or going to him when he starts to bark or whine. Your dog is learning that in order to get attention from you, barking and whining is the way to do it. He’s controlling you. And by you picking him up or giving in to him in some way, you’re reinforcing that. Remember, YOU are the boss, not your dog. The way to break your dog of that habit is to ignore the unwanted behavior and only praise your dog when it is not barking. Then he’ll get the message that he only gets what he wants (attention or affection) when he gives you what you want (a calm quiet dog).

No dog owner should suffer the guilt, pain or embarrassment of having a dog that barks constantly. Finally, dog owners can safely leave Fido alone knowing he’s happy and quiet. And no more worrying about dirty looks from the neighbors. All it takes is knowing the proper way to deal with the behavior.

About the Author:

Cynthia Alexander is a former dog trainer and author of the electronic book “The Ultimate Guide to Stop Your Dog from Barking…FAST.” Ms. Alexander gives many detailed answers to all kinds of nuisance barking problems, including separation anxiety. It is available via immediate download for $29.97 at http://www.stopyourbarking.com – A must have for anyone dealing with excessive barking.

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It’s Not My Fault! – Inadvertently Reinforced Bad Behaviors

Laura — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 15:41:28 +0000

Now here’s an alarming fact: Every interaction you have with your dog results in his learning something, whether you intentionally meant to train him or not! In a young dog, this is especially significant, since he has less of a history with you and so each interaction has a greater impact.

So what are the most common unintentionally trained bad behaviors?! See if these sound familiar…

The Rude Greeter

Your dog is a social butterfly. He just loves jumping up to give kisses, and, while some people greet him with open arms, others push him away. And the trouble is he’s getting more exuberant with each passing day.

So how did he learn that? It’s a natural behavior for dogs to sniff faces as part of their greeting ritual, but the problem is that it’s not part of our greeting ritual. The behavior is then encouraged by those people who enjoy bouncy dogs and give them lots of love and pets while they’re leaping up on them. Strangely enough, though, even those people who don’t like a jumping dog often contribute to the problem by pushing them off with their hands. Touch is very reinforcing and so even touch used in an attempt to push away the dog will likely encourage the behavior.

And how do you fix it? For starters, you need to use some management techniques to get the ball rolling in the right direction. With your dog on leash, step on his leash at a distance from him where he can sit or stand comfortably but where he cannot jump up. Recruit a friend to help you with the exercise. Have your friend stand 10 feet or so away with some treats in his hand and have him play with the treats a bit in order to keep your dog focused on the game. Now here’s the key: WAIT for your dog to offer a sit. Don’t ask for it. I’ve found that dogs tend to learn better when they do their own problem-solving. When we give them the answer, they seem to need us to keep giving them the answer time and time again. So wait for a sit and, this first time, that wait could take quite a while! As soon as your dog’s butt hits the ground, your friend should start to walk slowly toward you. If your dog stands up, your friend should immediately start to back away. When pup sits again, your friend proceeds forward. While your friend may feel like a human yoyo, your dog is being taught impulse control – that the things he wants in life will only be granted to him for polite behavior. A valuable life lesson!

The Demand Barker

You’re walking with your dog when you run into a friend. You stop to chat and your dog sits quietly beside you and waits. After a while, he gets impatient and fidgety, tired of the boring human chatter, and he starts to bark and jump on you, eager to resume the journey. To buy yourself a little more time, you give your pup some treats in an effort to quiet him. Now you’ve noticed that he starts barking and jumping on you almost immediately when you meet people on the street.

So how did he learn that? Unfortunately this one is the most common and the most insidious. The pitfall is that the good behavior is so easily overlooked but the bad behavior is overt and annoying and rather hard to ignore. In the example, when your dog was sitting quietly and patiently, his behavior went unnoticed and unappreciated. When he became impatient and demanding, his behavior was rewarded with hush money.

And how do you fix it? This is another time when you should step on your dog’s leash at a distance from him where he can sit or stand comfortably but where he cannot jump up. Cue him to sit and start giving him little pieces of treats, first fairly frequently, then increasing the duration between treats. We’re working on building his patience. Should your dog bark at you, give him a time-out by turning your back on him (with your foot still on the leash) and ignoring him, only turning to face him when he’s quiet.

In these early practices, stop along the street without conversing with anyone. You’ll need to devote your full attention to these early exercises. As he gets better, recruit friends to join you, as having other people around changes the exercise for you and for him. You will be somewhat distracted at first and a friend will understand this and not expect you to carry on a complete conversation. Soon enough, you’ll both be ready for prime time!

A final note: If his demand behavior includes mouthing, nipping at hands or clothes, then consider using a head collar (like a Gentle Leader, a Halti, or a Snoot Loop) which will give you more control of his head and allow you to zip his mouth shut when needed.

The Sock Stealer

Your pup seems to have a knack for stealing your most sensitive things – socks, slippers, underwear, and the like. Even more annoying, it becomes a frustrating game of keep-away with you chasing him in circles and now it’s happening daily.

So how did he learn that? The funny thing is that dogs pick up things all the time – paper, toys, rawhides, socks, everything! The only difference is that we don’t mind one bit when the article is one of his own toys. The problems begin when he picks up something of ours and we tend to get emotional about it and will go to great lengths to retrieve it from him. It’s this difference in our reaction that actually encourages the behavior. The great game of chase that erupts when he picks up forbidden items is what makes those items so much more enticing to grab.

And how do you fix it? Teach your dog to drop things on command, all things – his belongings as well as yours. When he’s got hold of something, say “drop it!” and then hold a treat to his nose. When he drops the toy, give him the treat and take the toy. Then offer him the toy back. The ultimate goal is for him to automatically yield the toy upon hearing the command, so make sure it’s the command first, then the lure on the nose, and then the treat for the drop. There will be some articles for which you say “drop it” that you will not return to him, like a sock but, after you’ve done so many repetitions with articles that you immediately return to him, he’s going to think “drop it” is a win-win – he gets a treat for doing it and he gets the toy back. And it’s a great way to teach your dog how to share.

A final note: Puppy-proof your house as much as possible so that your dog doesn’t have the opportunity to grab the wrong things: put shoes in the closet and dirty socks in the hamper. Then his play behaviors will develop for appropriate targets.

The Party Pooper

You’ve settled down to watch a little TV, having just returned from your pup’s last potty break for the night, when your dog comes darting out from behind the couch and starts running in the crazy circles you recognize as his post-poop victory laps. You know that he knows he’s being bad, since otherwise he wouldn’t be seeking out hiding places for the dirty deed.
So how did he learn that? What looks to us as guilt for wrong-doing is really just done in an effort to avoid punishment for a behavior he does not understand to be wrong. It’s often accompanied by a low body posture and low tail wag, appeasement gestures used in an effort to turn off what your dog construes as your unpredictable anger.

A variation on this theme is the dog who squats on the carpet right in front of you and pees. Such behavior is often attributed to “dominant” behavior but it’s really little more than attention-seeking behavior, much like the sock stealing scenario. (See the article Understanding a Dog’s Inner Puppy in YPC’s August 2007 issue.)

Either way, the truth is that your dog is not fully house-trained. While he may do his business outside most of the time, it is still not clear to him that “outside’s good, inside’s bad”.

And how do you fix it? Go the extra mile to get your dog fully housetrained; this means being more vigilant with him in the house. Keep things positive, praising and treating for pottying in the right place and quietly cleaning up mistakes in the wrong place. Punishment for breaks in housetraining only causes anxiety and further transgressions.

The Upshot

When troublesome behaviors worsen, turn a critical eye to what might be inadvertently reinforcing them. Investigate management techniques (the leash can be a great tool) that will help inhibit the bad behavior while alternate behaviors are shaped. Finally, envision what you’d rather your dog do than the behavior he’s chosen – for instance, sitting rather than jumping up – and help him find his way to being a better dog!
LAURA GARBER, CPDT, is a certified dog trainer and behavior counselor living in Hoboken, NJ. Her company WoofGang, LLC is committed to deepening the bonds between dogs and their people through positive training and behavior modification techniques, and it is these same topics that inspire her writing.

Tips On Eliminating Your Puppy Bad Habits Of Whining, Excessive Barking And Chewing

Dog Service Network — Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:15:10 +0000

By: Jonathan Cheong

Anyone who owns a dog or puppy will eventually run into the need to eliminate unwanted habits. While most dogs are eager to please their owners and smart enough to do what is asked of them, it is important for the owner to properly communicate just what constitutes acceptable and unacceptable behaviors.

Each type of unacceptable behavior requires its own specific cures, and in most cases the cures will need to be tailored to fit the specific personality of the dog. Every breed of dog has its own unique personality characteristics, and every individual within that breed has his or her own unique personality.

Whining, howling and excessive barking

Let’s start with one of the most frequently encountered problem behaviors in both dogs and puppies. While some barking and other vocalizing is perfectly normal, in many cases barking, howling and whining can become problematic. This is particularly important for those living in apartment buildings, or in closely spaced homes. Fielding complaints about barking is not the best way for you and your dog to meet the neighbors.

Some tips of dealing with excessive whining, barking and howling include:

If your puppy or dog is howling or whining while confined to its crate, immediately take it to its toilet area. Most puppies and dogs will whine when they need to do their business.
It is important to teach a dog or a puppy to accept being alone. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety, and these stressed dogs can exhibit all sorts of destructive and annoying behaviors. It is important to accustom the puppy to being left on its own, even when the owner is at home.
Always strive to make the puppy or dog as comfortable as possible. Always attend to the physical and psychological needs of the dog by providing food, water and toys.
If the dog is whining, check for obvious reasons first. Is the water dish empty? Is the dog showing signs of illness? Has his or her favorite toy rolled under the furniture? Is the temperature of the room too hot or too cold?
Do not reward the puppy or dog for whining. If the dog whines when left alone, for instance, it would be a mistake to go to the dog every time it whines.
After you have ensured that the dog’s physical needs are being met, and that discomfort is not responsible for the whining, do not hesitate to reprimand the dog for inappropriate behavior.

Problem Chewing

Puppies naturally chew, and they tend to explore their world using their mouths and teeth. While chewing may be normal, however, it is not acceptable, and it is important to nip any chewing problems in the bud to prevent the chewing puppy from growing into a chewing dog.

Providing a variety of chew toys is important when teaching a puppy what is appropriate to chew and what is not. Providing a variety of attractive chew toys is a good way to keep the puppy entertained and to keep his teeth and gums exercised. Scented or flavored toys are great choices for most puppies.

The puppy should be encouraged to play with these chosen toys, and the puppy should be effusively praised every time he or she plays with or chews these toys.

Another great strategy is to encourage the puppy to get a toy every time he or she greets you. Every time the puppy greets you or a member of your family, teach him to get one of his toys.

It is also important to exercise good housekeeping techniques when training a puppy not to chew on inappropriate items. Keeping the area to which the puppy has access free and clean is important. Keeping items out of reach of the puppy will go a long way toward discouraging inappropriate chewing. Try to keep the puppy’s area free of shoes, trash, and other items, and always make sure that the area has been properly puppy proofed.

If the puppy does pick up an inappropriate item like a shoe, distract the puppy and quickly replace the item with one of its toys. After the puppy has taken the toy, praise it for playing with and chewing that toy.

Try booby trapping items the dog should avoid by spraying them with bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or other nasty but non-toxic items.

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The Bark Stops Here!

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