Dog Service Network, LLC » Behaviors

Dog Behavior Specialist Warns of Increase in Dog Bites

Dog Service Network — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 15:56:08 +0000

Karen Arnoff, Cleveland, Ohio’s premier dog behavior specialist and expert witness and investigator with dog related legal issues warns that now is the time to watch out for unforeseen dog aggression.

Solon, OH (PRWEB) June 6, 2010 — Karen Arnoff, Cleveland, Ohio’s premier dog behavior specialist and expert witness and investigator with dog related legal issues warns that now is the time to watch out for unforeseen dog aggression. “I see more dog bite and other dog aggression cases in the spring and summer than at any other time of year,” says Ms. Arnoff. “And, it makes sense, she says, “if you look at it from the dog’s point of view.” Some of the contributing factors she identifies are:

Puppies adopted during the cold winter season may not get socialized to all the stimuli found outside during the summer. They are likely to view playful children, joggers, speeding bikers and moving trucks as prey. In addition, dogs that have not been properly socialized may exhibit not only predatory aggression but defensive aggression as well.
In the spring and summer, fall/winter puppies start to reach puberty. With puberty comes territorial marking by them and other dogs. That invisible communication (that is like a neon light to dogs) can be the start of dog fights in the neighborhood.
Also, with puberty comes more protective and pack aggression in general.
In hotter weather, dogs may become irritable and react aggressively, even to stimuli they previously tolerated. (Children running, noise, etc.).

Dog owners need to know that their dogs’ behaviors are dynamic. And, as their dogs change physically and socially and react to their ever-changing environment, their behavior can also change. Dogs need to be socialized appropriately and receive pro-active anti-aggressiveness training. Ms. Arnoff says, “I often hear bewildered clients say about their dog, “But he never bit anyone before.” But Ms. Arnoff warns, “There is never a bite before the first bite – but there are warning signs. Knowing those warning signs and being proactive can prevent spring/summer dog aggression and many unexpected bites.”

Source: PR Web

Good News About Dog Bites and How to Make it Better

Dog Service Network — Mon, 17 May 2010 15:50:42 +0000

Dog bites represent a tiny fraction of the injuries treated in the nation’s emergency rooms. Dog bites are, on average, far less severe than injuries we suffer from other common enjoyments. The good news about dog bites will be even better, following a model of responsible pet ownership.

Amenia, NY (PRWEB) May 17, 2010 — There are 308 million humans and 75 million dogs in the U.S. The majority of dog owners view their dogs as members of the family. Dogs provide us joy, companionship, love and laughter.

Bites constitute a tiny fraction of our hundreds of millions of daily interactions with dogs. Moreover, U.S. public health statistics show that the risk of bites from dogs is slight when compared with other risks Americans accept on a daily basis.

According to the Centers for Disease Control database, for the years 2000-2008, dog bites accounted for less than 1% of the injuries treated in the nation’s emergency rooms.

A person injured by a dog is far less likely to be injured seriously than those who suffer other kinds of injuries. For example, over 5% of the 4.6 million Americans who went to an emergency department during those same years because they had been injured on a bicycle were subsequently admitted to a hospital or treatment facility. Over 9% of the 70 million Americans who went to the emergency room because they fell down were admitted.

Only 1.9% of dog bite victims were.

As the human and canine populations have grown – the canine population at a faster rate than the human one – reports of dog bites to major metropolitan health departments have fallen substantially. Even the U.S. Postal Service, for whom dog bites to delivery personnel have been a continuing source of concern, has seen reports of bites decline by more than 50% since 1983.

As low as the risk from dogs is, National Canine Research Council takes the occasion of National Dog Bite Prevention Week, May 16 – 22, to highlight a successful responsible pet ownership model that can reduce that risk even further. Studies of dog bite injuries by American researchers have usually concluded with reminders of an owner’s responsibility for his or her dogs.

Calgary, Alberta’s Animal & Bylaw Services has successfully translated those recommendations into a plan of municipal action. Calgary enacted what was titled the Responsible Pet Ownership Bylaw. (In the interests of full disclosure, we proudly point out that Animal & Bylaw Services Director Bill Bruce is an advisor to NCRC.) It codifies four simple principles: 1. License and provide permanent identification for your pets; 2. Spay or neuter your pets; 3. Provide training, socialization, proper diet and medical care for your pets; and 4. Do not allow your pets to become a threat or nuisance in the community.

The result in Calgary has been spectacular. For 2008, among the 1.1 million citizens of Calgary, there were only 145 dog bites.

Organizations nationwide are offering advice and educational resources to help children and adults be safe around dogs. NCRC urges Americans of all ages to take advantage of those resources, so that we live companionably with the 75 million dogs in our midst.

And whenever dog-safety issues come up in the community, NCRC urges all Americans to remember how Calgary solved the problem.

About Karen Delise & The National Canine Research Council
Karen Delise is the Founder and Director of Research for the National Canine Research Council, and the author of The Pit Bull Placebo: The Media, Myths and Politics of Canine Aggression (Anubis Publishing) She can be reached at kdelise(at)ncrcouncil(dot)com. The mission of The National Canine Research Council is to publish accurate, documented, reliable research to promote a better understanding of the human-canine bond.

Source: PR Web

What Stress Can Do To Your Dog

Dog Service Network — Sun, 19 Apr 2009 18:18:30 +0000

Stress for a pet can either be physical or emotional, just as with their human owners. Stress can be triggered by a change in the pets environment or what a pet perceives as a threat to their well-being.

Health problems such as infections, injuries, injuries from fights and changes in the amount of exercise can cause stress. Boarding in unfamiliar places, breeding, whelping, performing in shows, and travel can cause stress. A death in the immediate family of the owner which can cause a loss of affection can cause stress. Earthquakes, home fires, extra people in the home can cause stress. Sudden changes in the living area such as new furniture or a new home can cause stress. Age is also a factor with stress. Older pets do not react well to changes in their routine. They also become set in their ways. In older pets it is advisable to arrange a sitter rather than put the pet in a kennel if travel for the owner becomes an issue. The pets environment and routines will have only a minimal change.

Stress causes an increase in your pets heartbeat and their muscles tense. Extra energy is needed to help cope with stress. Adding a little extra comfort food is recommended. Usually a little more protein and fat are a good idea. For an amount specific to your breed consult your veterinarian.

Stress can cause a change in your pets behaviour. Changes can be aggressive behaviour or complete depression. Either scenario requires TLC (tender loving care). Keep yourself and your pet as calm, quiet and relaxed as possible. Provide comfort food, lots of water and a quiet place to rest. Having a portable kennel and a muzzle are also recommended. Consult your veterinarian prior to and after stressful situations for suggestions to prevent minimal stress and to ensure your pets health and recovery will have a speedy return to normal.

Reprinted with permission by Terrie Simpson, www.k9klearup.com/19726. Terrie has been involved in the dog world for over 28 years and has achieved numerous awards with her Springer Spaniels in tracking and obedience. Over that time, she has amassed a good amount of knowledge about how to keep a dog healthy. She is now happy to give back by sharing her experience with other dog owners.

Get the best of the canine world right to your inbox – Signup today for the K9Kourier weekly newsletter at www.k9klearup.com/k9klearup/19726 and receive a FREE 41 minute MP3 download on “Natural Ways To Care For Your Canine”.

Animal Welfare Groups Announce New Collaboration to Save Pit Bulls

Dog Service Network — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:04:26 +0000

Best Friends Animal Society and The Humane Society of the United States announced that a summit meeting held this week in Las Vegas to discuss the disposition of dogs seized from dogfighting operations has led to a coalition of groups working together to help the canine victims of organized violence.

(Vocus/PRWEB ) April 10, 2009 — Best Friends Animal Society and The Humane Society of the United States announced that a summit meeting held this week in Las Vegas to discuss the disposition of dogs seized from dogfighting operations has led to a coalition of groups working together to help the canine victims of organized violence.

Among the outcomes of the meeting:

The HSUS has a new policy of recommending that all dogs seized from fighting operations be professionally evaluated, according to agreed upon standards, to determine whether they are suitable candidates for adoption. Dogs deemed suitable for placement should be offered as appropriate to adopters or to approved rescue organizations. The HSUS will update its law enforcement training manual and other materials to reflect this change in policy.

The groups agree that all dogs should be treated as individuals, and they are the true victims of this organized crime. They also agree to support law enforcement and animal control agencies when decisions must be made regarding the dogs deemed unsuitable for adoption and in cases when rescue organizations and adopters are unable, within a reasonable timeframe, to accept dogs from such raids that have been offered for adoption.

The organizations will form a working group to develop future protocols for cooperation in addressing the needs of dogs seized in raids, such as how to assist with the housing of fighting dogs, how to conduct professional evaluations, and how to screen potential adopters.

The summit meeting was convened to address the matter of dogs seized as a result of cruelty investigations, particularly due to the increase in HSUS-led enforcement actions against dogfighters. Participants at the meeting included Best Friends Animal Society, The Humane Society of the United States, BAD RAP, ASPCA, National Animal Control Association, Maddie’s Fund, Nevada Humane Society, and Spartanburg Humane Society.

CONTACTS:
Best Friends Animal Society
Barbara Williamson (435) 689-0200 (cell) or barbara(at)bestfriends.org
John Polis (435) 644-2001, ext. 4858 or johnp(at)bestfriends.org

The Humane Society of The United States
Rachel Querry (301)258-8255 or rquerry(at)humanesociety.org
Martin Montorfano: 301-258-3152 or mmontorfano(at)humanesociety.org

About Best Friends Animal Society:
Celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2009, Best Friends Animal Society advances nationwide animal welfare initiatives by working with shelter and rescue groups around the country. The society operates the nation’s largest facility for abused, abandoned and special needs companion animal, Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, which is located in southwestern Utah. On any given day the sanctuary is home to approximately 1,700 dogs, cats, horses, rabbits, birds, and other animals. The society publishes Best Friends magazine, the nation’s largest general interest, pet-related magazine with approximately 300,000 subscribers. For more information on Best Friends Animal Society, visit: http://www.bestfriends.org/.

Source: PR Web Press Release Newswire

Object Guarding – Canine Possession Aggression

Dog Service Network — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:39:11 +0000

Canine Possession Aggression……..object guarding, this is the act of aggressively protecting objects such as toys, pigs ears, rawhide chews, bones, or articles that the dog has found or stolen, such as socks shoes underwear tissues and human food.

The ears going back will be part of typical body language relating to this behaviour. The dog then will go into a crouch over the object, displaying a whale eye, that is the head turned away but the eyes are swivelled back towards you the perceived threat to his possession, the whites showing, you may also find the lips are slightly pulled back almost in a grin. Look at pictures of whales and you will see why whale eye gets its name.

Mine! All Mine.

So why would the dog want to protect these objects? Simple answer is that it’s normally a learned experience. Either it is a reaction from their siblings taking and tugging objects away at an early age, or we teach them this behaviour by our actions and reactions. As a puppy, your dog wandered through parts of the house, picking up and investigating any little object left lying around. However as soon as he picked up something we did not want him to have, we immediately snatched this precious possession away.

Before long, our intrepid pup would pick up an object then run away so we couldn’t take away his find, he would scamper either to another room, the garden, under or behind a table, settee, or chair anywhere where we could not easily relieve him of his treasure.

So what do we do? We follow him to wherever he has hidden away, shouting leave it, or drop! What does the little monster do, he whale eyes you and starts to growl. He has now learned a couple of very valuable lessons.

When you give a command, he does not always need to obey.
If he shows aggression, you back off.

And by our actions, we have successfully taught him to resource guard.

Advice?

Well meaning friends and of course the inimitable doggy experts. You will find these in abundance in any park, street, pub or internet forum, they will tell you to grab the dog by the scruff of the neck then forcibly remove the object, put the dog into an alpha roll position, or give it a good thump. The tips and advice are endless. If you analyse them all you will find that nearly every suggestion will be confrontational, these methods will inevitably have the exact opposite effect to what you are hoping to cure.

What you will rarely be told is to train the dog so that it wants to give up the object, that the dog will think it is fun and rewarding to let you have these treasured articles back.

Start Early

Your puppies and adult dogs should be used to having their mouth touched, when you then wish to remove something it isn’t seen as confrontational. From the day you get your dog, either as a puppy or adult dog, brush his teeth, play with his flews (the floppy bits on the upper lip), open his mouth, check his tonsils, look down his throat, do this in a positive fun way with lots of praise and the occasional treat.

Purchase a long rawhide knot or bone. Hold on to one end of the knot while the dog chews on the other. He may want to play tug, but just hold do not pull away, in time he will get used to your presence and relax and just chew.
It is important for your dog to view you as the provider of all good things. You can do this by tightly controlling the dog’s environment. Keep all but one or two toys up off the floor and take the others down only when you want to play. Make sure you offer an item with a command like “Take it.” When you are tired of the game (you that is, not the dog), tell the dog to “Drop” or “Dead” Give him another item or treat in exchange, and then pick up the first object and put it away.

Do you know your dog’s likes and dislikes? Compose a list of all the things your dog really enjoys including food, toys, treats and activities, rank them in a hierarchical order, In exchange for dropping the first item give your dog a second, “better” item. For instance, if tennis ball retrieving is third on your dog’s list, reward him with cheese, frankfurter or puffed jerky for dropping the tennis ball. If your dog attempts to pick up a bit of rubbish in the street, command him to “drop” and then throw or give him his tennis ball.

Give a Cue

Teach the word dead, drop, or give, do it in a fun way with a happy high silly voice. Start by allowing him to have something that is not so valuable then trade with him for his favourite treat, what is his favourite treats or game? Do you really know your dog’s likes and dislikes?

This is fine for teaching young pups or dogs that are not presently guarding but what about ones that are already way down the road of resource guarding. Training a young puppy is relatively easy. Re-training an older dog is more difficult, but not impossible.

Trade and Reward

Firstly take away all objects the dog is guarding, that could be toys, tissues, chews, bones, pigs ears or sleeping places, that includes beds, sofas or chairs. You may not be able to move the latter but you can cover it, put a box or something else on it that will restrict access. Do not allow access to these precious resources a number of days.

You need to prepare for the next stage if the guarding is articles such as toys chews bones etc, prepare some of the dogs really favourite treats, cheese or frankfurter tends to be high on the list. Then get a low value object, it may be a tissue or a sock, a pigs ear for instance may be perceived as high value. Try to be slightly to the side of the dog rather than face on and relax, take the tension you may feel out of your body as the dog will both smell and sense your fear and this could trigger a reaction.

Offer the object to the dog but try and keep hold of it as the dog takes it, use whatever release command you have decided on it could be “dead” “drop” “leave” or “trade” immediately produce the tasty treat from behind your back and exchange. Praise when the exchange takes place and give back the object you first exchanged.

Set scheduled times to repeat this exercise at least four times a day but also just do it in opportune moments. Gradually up the anti of treasured goods. Over a period of time the dog will start to look forward to your approach and game. It is at this time that you give your dog the object and walk away, at first come back immediately and trade gradually making the time and distance you walk away longer, until you clearly see the dog is having no problems with your approach whatsoever. Then only give a treat every third time, then every tenth, take the object away and immediately give it back extending the period on this until the guarding behaviour disappears.

As with food guarding, you want to build a positive association around people approaching the objects being guarded. The dog needs to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects can be positive and rewarding.

Location or Bed Guarding

This is not always as simple as it may seem, as the severity or incidence may be related to who is approaching. It may be that a woman can approach the bed or sleeping place but not a man, an adult but not a child. It is not always tied to the object being guarded, but more to the relationship or lack of it of the person approaching the resource.

Sometimes this behaviour manifests itself when we try to move the dog off a sofa or when we handle or stroke the dog. It is worth in these cases making sure the dog is not ill or in pain as this could stimulate aggressive reactions.

As with other forms of guarding, make this a positive experience. Gauge how far you can approach before any aggressive reaction occurs. Initially keep to this distance and as you pass throw a treat, praising the dog at the same time. Make sure you do not praise or treat if there is growling or any show of aggression. Gradually decrease the distance over a period of time, do not rush the exercise, if the dog starts to react go back a few steps and start again. Change your angle of approach and the person who is approaching. Always try not to approach head on come in at an angle from the side give lots of verbal praise for a calm and passive reaction from the dog.

Maintain the Status Quo

Over time your pet will come to realise that your approach is a positive experience and the guarding will hopefully cease. However if it starts up again repeat the exercise. You should practice once a week exchange or trade, for the remainder 0of the dogs life.

If you are already at the point where the dog has actually bitten you, then I would suggest you get professional help. This should be from a behaviourist or a trainer who understands aggression. You should look for one that comes to your house. I never understand how professionals can assess your dog’s behaviour from the confines of a vets or an office. The dog reacts very differently when out of its own environment.

© Copyright: Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener) one of the leading Dog Behaviourists and Obedience Trainers in the UK. Who has owned and worked dogs for over 30 years, starting with Gundogs then moving on to the behavioural and obedience side of Pet Dogs. He now has a successful practice covering London, Surrey and Middlesex. Visit his Web Site for more information and details of his work. www.doglistener.co.uk.

Please do not distribute this article in any media without prior permission.

Stan Rawlinson.
Dog Behaviourist & Trainer
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
H 0208 979 2019
M 07976 153161

Puppy Obedience Basics

Tracy — Sun, 01 Feb 2009 20:48:38 +0000

Puppy obedience starts from the moment you come home with your puppy. It is kept simple and you motivate your pup to do everything. There is no forcing here, keep it fun! Use small food treats and toys.

This will show leadership on your part and shape your pups behavior, which is much easier then changing bad behavior later on. Training your pup is a “lifestyle”! Remember you are training your pup all of the time and every time you interact with him. Even if you not thinking about training your puppy.

NOTE: Keep your commands specific with only one meaning. Example: if “down” means lay on the floor then don’t use “down” when you want your pup to get off of you or off of something else by saying “get down” this will be confusing to the pup.

Remember you don’t want to get into the habit of using a lot of verbal wording to stop your pup from doing something or you could just end up giving your pup negative attention and wonder why he is repeating the behavior.

Part of teaching your puppy obedience is to teach him to always look at you. If your pup isn’t looking at you DON’T talk to him. If you want to say something to him make a kissing sound so the pup looks at you and gives you eye contact as you say “ready”, then praise him with “good ready” and then speak to him.

It is important to ALWAYS have your dog’s attention before interacting with him no matter what you are doing with him. Soon you won’t have to make the kissing sound just give the command, “ready”.

Help your pup do a “sit” when you feed him by holding his food bowl up over his head and back slightly, not so high that he jumps up, but low enough that he will automatically go into the sit position. Don’t ask for the “sit” at this point until you are sure your pup will give you the “sit” position every time, then ask for the “sit” as your pup starts to give you the behavior.

Praise and release with a word like “okay” and place the food bowl on the floor for him. Important you must release your pup BEFORE he gets up! This keeps you in the leadership role, very important. If he does get up, say “No” and gently replace him in the “sit” position, wait a few seconds before releasing.

You can ask your pup for a “sit” by using a small food treat or toy for motivation. Do this whenever you want to pet your pup, play, throw a toy, put on his leash, or go out the door. Do this any time you want to interact with your pup. Later you can do this with the “down” too.

The next step in puppy obedience is to teach your puppy to do a “down” position. Start from the “sit” position WITHOUT saying the command “sit” motion for it instead. You should be on the floor with your pup and have him on one side or the other.

Have small food treats (or toy) in your hand and make sure the pup sees or smells it, then promptly place your hand on the floor with the food treat directly in front of the pup and wait. You DON’T say anything at this point.
If your pup tries to get up gently keep his butt on the floor in the “sit” position with your other hand then remove your hand. Touch is distracting, use it as little as possible. Tap the floor with the food treat a couple of times to refocus the pup.

Be patient and your puppy will eventually go into the “down” position. When he does, instantly release the food treat to him as you verbally praise him. Get him to look at you with the kissing sound and or “ready” and then release him with “okay”.

When your pup is giving you this “down” position every time you can start giving the command, “down”, at the same time as you place your treat hand on the floor, tap the floor if necessary. Praise! (When tapping the floor never take the treat back up to the pup’s nose, small little taps will be sufficient to get your pups attention and to refocus him.) NOTE: When giving the verbal command, never repeat it, say it only once!

To teach your pup to hold any position longer give little food treats every few seconds. Building the time slowly, then decreasing the number of food treats given. If you don’t ask your pup for more he won’t give you more! Build on wins! Always verbally praising your pup! Remember to always get his attention BEFORE you release him.

Tracy Lenderink, Master Trainer
“Master In Creating A Bride of Knowledge Between The Animal And Human Spirit”
http://www.simpledogtrainingsecrets.com

The Bark Stops Here!

Laura — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 02:59:59 +0000

With the quality of lives our dogs are living today as full-fledged members of our families, it’s hard to figure what they have to bark about! But all barks are not equal, and you must diagnose the cause before you can have any hope of eliminating it. Here are some techniques for diagnosing and then modifying this troublesome behavior…

Demand Barking

It is in our nature to respond and comfort the cries of our babies, whether they be of the human or canine persuasion. Of course, cries of true distress should not be ignored, but demand behaviors are a different matter. Yips of protest when your dog is first left alone in the crate, or an attention-seeking pup demanding to be plucked up into your lap, should not get the desired result, or you will be beleaguered by these behaviors for life. Instead, ask your dog for a polite sit (the doggie equivalent of “please”) before petting her. Approach her crate only when she’s calm and quiet. If your puppy barks at you for attention or for food, turn your back to her, or put her food away and leave the kitchen. In so doing, you’re teaching her that these behaviors impede progress rather than hasten it.

Recreational Barking

Recreational barking is often misdiagnosed as separation anxiety because it frequently happens when the family is absent. When barking is the sole symptom, first investigate the possibility that it’s recreational.
The act of barking is self-reinforcing so it is a behavior that is likely to intensify without modification. Increase exercise, particularly before leaving for long periods of time, so that your dog is tired and ready for a rest in your absence. Hire a dog walker to break up the time that he is left alone. Incorporate fun mental challenges like stuffed puzzle toys for your pup to work on in solitude. Leave some classical music playing: It can be relaxing and it can also dampen outside noises that might provoke your dog to bark.
As a last resort, the use of a citronella bark collar can inhibit the behavior by establishing an unpleasant consequence.

Barking Due to Separation Distress

Separation distress-related barking (whether it be due to separation anxiety or simply hyper-attachment) usually happens immediately upon being left alone. In the case of separation anxiety, other indicative symptoms are destructive (or self-destructive) behavior, breaking of housetraining in a housetrained dog, or anorexic behavior.

You must treat the underlying cause of your dog’s barking by gradually building his tolerance to periods of separation. (See the article Home Alone on http://www.mywoofgang.com/creature_feature.php.) Most importantly, never use punishment in an attempt to decrease separation anxiety-related barking, as it will only increase the anxiety in an already anxious dog.

Fear-Driven Barking

Under-socialized dogs may bark when in the presence of certain people, other dogs, or unfamiliar circumstances. My dog Trista barked when she saw horses for the first time on Mackinac Island in Michigan. This was fairly problematic since Mackinac relies on horses and horse-drawn vehicles for the majority of its transport. Within ten minutes of her first contact with horses, Trista was able to sit quietly near horses and even go for a horse-drawn carriage ride with the family. By using desensitization and counter-conditioning (as described in my article Harnessing the Power of Pavlov on http://www.mywoofgang.com/archive_VTC_Pavlov.php), the fear was treated and thus her barking was eliminated.

Punishing fear has the same unfortunate result as punishing anxiety – it only escalates the emotional trauma that the dog is experiencing. Treat the fear and the barking will resolve itself.

Communicative Barking

Bella Curled Up

One of my clients has a darling English Bulldog named Bella. Bella is a happy girl and so she should be: She has an affectionate, attentive mom and lives a very good life. There are times, though, when Bella needs to speak up! – when her Tricky Treat Ball rolls out of her reach under the furniture or when she needs a potty break. Bella’s not pushy, though; she lets out a single yap and waits for the attention she requires. This is perfectly appropriate doggie behavior.

Gone are the days when dogs are to be seen and not heard. Communication is a necessary and essential part of our relationships with our canine family members and should not be squelched completely.

So, rather than barking back at your dog, identify her grievance – whether it be one of an emotionally stressed dog or of a too-pampered pooch – and treat the cause.
LAURA GARBER, CPDT, is a certified dog trainer and behavior counselor living in Hoboken, NJ. Her company WoofGang, LLC is committed to deepening the bonds between dogs and their people through positive training and behavior modification techniques, and it is these same topics that inspire her writing.

Parts of this article are excerpted from her recently published book, Bringing Up Puppy. Email her at Laura@myWoofGang.com if you’d like to order a copy or if you have questions.

Dominance – A Nine Letter Swear Word?

Dog Service Network — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 03:20:33 +0000

Dominance: It would be easy to imagine that the word dates back to dawn of civilization, surely there has always been conflict where dominance and subjugation have existed. Strangely enough dominance is a relatively new idea in biology, first mooted early last century by the Norwegian researcher Thorleif Schjelderup-Ebbe, who coined the term “pecking order” following his studies on chickens. The simple premise was that chicken A can peck all the other chickens but chicken Y can only peck X. and poor old X is effectively bottom of the heap.

In the 1930s, other researchers coined the term “alpha male” (and its converse, the “beta male”) to describe the leader of a wolf pack the dominant male or female. The problem is, biologists have never come close to agreeing on what dominance means. Therefore until an in depth study is carried out it will all be conjecture and theories, which leads me neatly onto recent theories. As trainers and behaviourists we have a habit of latching onto the latest buzz theorems, the latest ideas and study, and then to postulate than these theories are actual scientific fact, which the very word “Theory” discounts.

The latest bandwagon that some of these trainers and behaviorists have jumped on is that dominance does not exist, it is all a figment of our imagination and dogs cannot strive for dominance as they are conspecific, therefore can only relate to their own kind. In fact if these theorists that follow this argument look up the word conspecific they will see it has been hijacked “an organism belonging to the same species as another organism” . Where in that explanation does it say that animals cannot view other animals as similar? It is a bald statement not open to conjecture, belonging to the same species you cannot hypothesize more from that as it would be speculative guesswork.

This is from www.reference.com an online encyclopaedia: “Dominance in the context of biology and anthropology is the state of having high social status relative to other individuals, who react submissively to dominant individuals. The opposite of dominance is submissiveness.” “Dominance hierarchies are found in many animals, including primates such as human beings”. If we accept the antonym of dominance is submission, we are all aware that many dogs demonstrate clear submissive tendencies, then how can we possibly suggest that no dog demonstrates dominance or dominant behavior.

There is a word in music “enharmonic” that means changing the name without altering the pitch, in other words that two separate notations stand for the same sound. For example, the enharmonic spelling of F-sharp is G-flat. Both are exactly the same note but are named differently. I believe that is what is happening with the word dominance.

Patricia McConnell Ph.D the author of an excellent book “The Other End of The Leash” states that in some training and behavioral circles all talk of dominance is classed as politically incorrect and that these people are ardently opposed to anyone using the word in the context of dogs.

She goes on to say that at a professional seminar the word became so loaded that Wayne Hunthausen and herself started to call it “the concept formerly referred to as dominance” complete with its own Prince type icon.

How we can dismiss the fact that both dogs and ourselves are derived from animals that live in a controlled and carefully organized social system, and that within that system there are leaders and there are followers. Status is important to dogs, in fact to most canids that live in packs. I will accept that dogs do not pack up to live and hunt the same as wolves. They lost that requirement when they filled an ecological niche and predated off the detritus of mankind, becoming domesticated in the process.

That is not to say they do not enjoy the social meeting and greeting with others of their own kind, and in that social coming together are clear indications of status and rank. I have three dogs at present, they have distinct personalities and a clear pecking order within their own little pack, however I am also to some extent included in that pack. I make sure that I control the situation by laying down guidelines and rules; does that make me dominant or submissive or neither to that pack?

Donna Brander BSc(Hons), Honorary Fellow(R(D)SVS) states
“One of the most important issues to a dog is the stability of the pack. Without leadership, the stability of the pack is threatened. It is also of great benefit to be the leader. The leader gets to eat first, has the best places to sleep, has reproductive privileges and, in general, has all the best “stuff”. The leadership status is not a gender issue. Both males and females can and do achieve a high status within the pack”.

Scientist’s, behaviourists, and biologists, are now questioning the validity of the pack rule theory in two main areas. First, because it does not seem to occur in the wild, the strong dominance hierarchy that has been described for wolves may be a by-product of captivity. If true, it implies that social behaviour even in wolves may be a product more of environmental circumstances and contingencies than actual instinctive directives. Second, because feral dogs do not exhibit the classic wolf-pack structure,

However once again Patricia McConnell in her book “the other end of the leash” says: “Recently there’s been some confusion in the world of dog training about the role that status and hierarchy have in dog behavior. Some people argue that wolf like pack hierarchies have no relevance to dogs, because our house dogs probably derived from scavenging village dogs who didn’t live in packs like wolves”.

“Because the social relationship of scavenging village dogs appears to be different from the social structure of wolf packs, some trainers argue that social status and hierarchy are irrelevant to our own pet dogs. But that seems counter intuitive, given what we know about how our own dogs behave, and lacks understanding of how behavior and the environment interact”.

The first question we have to consider is whether the dog is a pack animal. According to ethnologists Raymond and Lorna Coppinger, it isn’t. They studied a group of feral dogs that lived in and around a village on the Island of Pemba. They had all the means of survival readily available, food from the village dumps, water, and shelter so there was no reason for them to form a pack. They lived semi-solitary lives or in small groups, probably mum and her offspring. We know dogs are social animals as are we, which is why we can live together under the same roof. So on the basis of Coppinger’s research, as we provide our dog with sufficient food, water is always available, they have five star accommodations, exercise is provided and their health cared for, therefore should we not be asking ourselves “why would they need to form a pack with us”?

The Coppingers theories are interesting informing and enlightening. They suggest that village dogs do not have a hierarchical structure, that they live an almost semi solitary existence. Therefore as modern day dog probably derived from village dogs that are seen on Pemba, then the idea of a hierarchical system does not exist as it does in wild canids that hunt as a pack.

I believe this has some fundamental flaws, on the dump at chake chake, where these village dogs had better resources, then hierarchical and resource disputes broke out far more often, dominance status and rank allowed the top dogs to get the richest pickings and I believe that is where his theory starts to show some anomalies.

That is not to say that the book was not brilliant, I thoroughly enjoyed it and I believe it to be a very important book with valid theories and observations. It does not follow that I have to agree with all the Coppingers assumptions and beliefs.

Barry Eaton has also written an interesting book called Dominance “Fact or Fiction” which is very readable and makes some interesting points but unfortunately did nothing to convince me that dogs have nothing in their psyche that could be related to the “Dominance” or “Status”.

Our domestic dogs are always competing for resources, we in some cases are the resource, hierarchical disputes do break out. I am more than aware that the word dominance is used to explain almost every behavioural problem in our pets, and that includes aggression. Yet in reality the dominant dog has no need for aggression, an air of authority and quiet confidence emanates from this type of dog, whereas the submissive fearful dogs is more likely to shown signs of aggression and to bite.

To some extent I sympathize with those, claiming the word dominance should no longer be used, that it is defunct and outdated and irrelevant, but sympathizing does not mean that I agree with their arguments or their logic, which I believe to be seriously flawed.

Advances in our learning and scientific studies have shown that our previous knowledge base did not give us the full picture, and was based on studies that were at best incomplete and at worst totally incorrect in their findings. The new wave of positive reinforcement style training and behavioral modification is proving to be far more effective and kinder than the methods previously used. The advent of clicker training has proved a revelation to many of today’s obedience and behavioral trainers. The style of training that insisted that the dog should be subservient and that reward or treat based training is bribery is fortunately now dying out in many areas, though their is still places and organizations that believe it is the only way to train.

But please lets not allow political correctness to creep into dog behavior or training lets be realistic and look at what we have in front of us, sometimes a joy, other times pushy and dare I say sometimes “dominant”. Irrespective we love them all even with their strange and irritating idiosyncrasies.

Stan Rawlinson
Monday, 20 March 2006

The Reasons Behind a Panting Dog

Dog Service Network — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 00:32:06 +0000

By Alex De La Cruz

Have you ever ask your self the question, “why do dogs pant?” Or did you ever wonder the reason behind it? Well, humans don’t pant so why should you bother yourself regarding a panting dog? Actually if you have that curiosity you have already ask that question but you just did not bother to find nature’s explanation. If you are stricken by intense heat what do you do? Maybe you will fan yourself, enjoy a cool smoothie, plunge into the pool or any sort of refreshments. As for the dogs they can’t do those things. They just pant and that is the reason behind a panting dog.

Dogs need to hang its tongue outside its mouth not to create a funny expression but to cool it self. By doing that it allows the air to moisten its tongue and let the air flow in to its body. The blood vessels in the head start to get cool and later on its whole body. It is very important for your dog to maintain its normal body temperature so that it will not die of heatstroke. During hot summer days your dog becomes restless because it is having a hard time of controlling the heat inside its body. It would be helpful if you would bring your pet to a cooler area.

Even a small space under a sturdy oak tree would be perfect. On the other hand if you do not have a shady area you can allot some space inside your house for your pet. Make sure that you place him or her near the electric fan or air conditioner. You can also try bringing your pet to the nearest park. Most parks have abundant trees so finding an area under it can be relaxing for your pet. As for you, you can bring a book or laptop to keep you busy while your pooch is snoozing off. One very important tip that you have to remember during summer is to provide your pet with plenty of water.

Water keeps them cool so make sure that you check whether it still has plenty of fresh water in its bowl. Another option is giving your dog a bath or just spraying it using the garden hose would be fine. However do not attempt to do this under extreme heat because your pet might get sick. A sudden rush of cool water over its stricken hot body is not good. Hot temperature is not the only reason for a panting dog. Sometimes feelings make them pant beyond normal. Whenever your dog is excited it tends to jumps up and down so fast that it cannot catch its breath or when it feels stressed.

On the more serious side, a dog pants due to some health problems. Diseases in the heart and lungs cause your dog to pant. Sometimes when they pant beyond normal it seems like they are going to run out of breath. When this happens it would be advisable to get your pet to a vet so that its condition will be check. Early check ups often times detect serious illnesses. So to keep you from worrying about your pet’s health condition better have it check early on.

The author of this article Alex De La Cruz is a Dog Trainer who has been successful with several dog training courses for many years. Alex decided to share his knowledge and tips through his website http://www.doggyweb.info. You can sign up for his free newsletter and enjoy a healthy and submissive dog.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alex_De_La_Cruz
http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Reasons-Behind-a-Panting-Dog&id=1861009

Understanding Your Dog’s Communication

Dog Service Network — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 00:26:52 +0000

By Jane Dinunzio

Learning to read your dog’s body language is pretty simple. They have limited actions and verbal noises, that once you can interpret, will make both your lives easier. You will then know when your pet is happy and when they are distressed.

Most devoted dog owners can immediately tell what their dogs are feeling by different body language signals. Most dogs have similar and repetitious signals that are generally easy for someone who understands their dog, will then help understand a friendly dog on the street, or in a dog park, from a potential enemy.

If you are not sure of what a dog is saying check out these few different examples that I have learned from my dogs, Lady and Lola.

A Happy, Friendly Tail Wagging Dog:

The tail will make wide sweeps or almost a circle movement, with the tail hanging down, and not held straight up and wagging stiffly. The ears are relaxed and fur will be smooth down the spine and shoulders. A happy tail wagging dog won’t look another dog or you in the eyes, but will be busy with the task of sniffing, usually first nose to nose, then nose to butt, moving in a relaxed manner. Ask the owner if it is okay to pet their dog after the sniffing routine is finished, then offer the back of your hand to smell first before petting. I usually just stand with my fist turned towards the unknown dog at this point, staying fairly still with my arm hanging down at snout level. I allow the dog to approach me rather than sticking my fist out towards him. So far I haven’t had a problem with misinterpreting this action as aggressive.

A Tail Wagging Dog that is Showing Aggression:

If you meet another dog while out with yours, or even if you are just out alone don’t assume he is friendly because his tail is wagging. Although the strange dog is not growling, showing it’s teeth and snapping at you, he can be dangerous. If his tail is stiff and held high, and the ears seem alert, and he stares directly into your or your dog’s eyes, then you are encountering a hostile dog. The hackles are raised. – ( the fur down the spine and around the shoulders ). To prevent attack you should try to quietly remove yourself and your dog quickly, without running of course.

A Happy Playful Pup:

This is my favorite way for Lady or Lola to show me their “mood”. Most people will recognize this type of dog language, even people who aren’t dog people. Let’s play. Your dog bows down and rests on the chest and front elbows, with the butt swinging happily up in the air. Sometimes after a short display of this, they get up, bark, run in circles, do a quick roll around, and return to the position. I can never resist this request.

A Very Unhappy Fearful Dog:

The whole body will be lowered, and tucking the tail to cover it’s scent will be a good indication that your dog is afraid of something. The ears are usually laid back and tight against his head, and the fur is raised along the back and shoulders. Fear biting is sometimes a result when a dog is afraid. This is a dog you want to retreat from quietly and quickly.

A Submissive Dog:

When a dog is being submissive, it may lie on his back and expose the belly. This is not a sign of cowardice. This way the dog gives you the power of pack leader he can relax and enjoy his life of belly scratches, walks, getting a regular meal and playing. These dogs aren’t looking for a fight, and are usually laid back and relaxed pets. This type of personality makes a good family member. As long as there are no other symptoms to go along with this behavior that would indicate the dog shows obsessive behavior along with this body language, or is so timid that is hides all the time and is truly a “scaredy dog”. I had a sweet, sweet beagle named Susie that was so submissive and afraid of everything that it took over one year just for her to trust me enough to approach me. She stayed mostly under the bed and I was always hunting around the house for her. I rescued Susie from a horrible existence in a puppy mill, at the age of 6 months. Even with all the her quirky and difficult behavior, I loved her dearly, and patiently she learned to trust the immediate family. She was a wonderful addition to my life for 10 years, before succumbing to cancer.

Obviously these few examples above of “dog body language” are just that – a few. Dog’s have many actions, expressions and stances that indicate different wants and needs. Most of these are genetically passed on from wild ancestors.

Learning to read the different variations within your dog’s body language makes living together a very rewarding endeavor.

Check out more about dog health, behavior, and nutrition here along with my pictures of Lady, Lola and my Susie’s bio here: http://recipes4gourmetdogs.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jane_Dinunzio
http://EzineArticles.com/?Understanding-Your-Dogs-Communication&id=1861115

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